The Independent Investor: The Business of Beauty

Don't go trying some new fashion Don't change the color of your hair ... I could not love you any better I love you just the way you are.

— Billy Joel

It is a "recession-proof" business with new openings forecasted to grow by 20 percent between now and 2018. Although these professions require state certification and courses in biology, chemistry, nutrition and herbology, hairdressing, hairstylists and cosmetologists can hardly fill the demand for their services.

The beauty of hair is that it grows; in fact, it is the fastest-growing tissue in the human body. The average human scalp harbors over 100,000 strands, which, if treated kindly, can have a lifespan of five and one half years. And today's female baby boomers are visiting salons at an increasing rate in order to preserve and enhance one of women's most alluring qualities. The nation's hairdressers are working overtime to accommodate these millions of women who keep coming back for a variety of services ranging from washing, shampooing, cutting, coloring and styling their hair.

Women spend well over $50 billion a year at the salon. That's in addition to the billions they are spending on shampoo, conditioners, hairsprays, gels, mousses and hair coloring. And there is evidence that women actually spend more in a recession since it helps make one feel better about themselves in the face of economic uncertainty.

"Even though the economy is not doing so well, my business is just fine," reports Theresa Smith, the owner of Sheffield's Mystique Salon for the last 20 years.

Hairdressing dates back to at least the 1700s when the ladies (and men) of the French Court of Louis XV vied to present the most dramatic appearance possible at balls and other state functions. Powders, pastes, baskets, buns, and even live birds and cascading waterfalls were part of the daily parade of excesses. In this country, hairdressers created the "bob" in the roaring Twenties, the “beehive” during the “Mad Men” years of the 1960s and a long series of television-inspired dos inspired by everyone from Jennifer Aniston to Farrah Fawcett.

"Back in 1983 when I got started," recalls Tracy Wilson, soon to be owner of Indulgence Hair Salon in Pittsfield, "it was all about big hair, big hair spray and scary chemicals. Things have changed, and for the better."

There are a little over 800,000 barbers, cosmetologists and other personal appearance workers in America and about 44 percent of them are self–employed. But cutting, coloring, styling, curling, straightening, giving scalp treatments and massages is hard work. Many in the business, especially those who own their own salon, put in more than a 40-hour week, which can include evenings and weekends. Many hairdressers (29 part time) are part time and many of those work two jobs.

It's a business where the newcomer must pay their dues.

"Here in Massachusetts, the state requires 1,000 hours of practical work in addition to your course studies and once you pass the exam you're licensed as an apprentice," explains Tracy. "Then you are required to work an additional 2,000 hours, roughly two years in a salon before you are a licensed hair stylist."

During that period the fledgling stylist starts at minimum wage plus commissions but will likely only bring in between $18,000 to $20,000 a year.

"I estimate someone who works hard, attracts a returning clientele and continues their education could be making an average of $45,000 a year in this region after five years," says Theresa Smith.

"Education is key," explains Tracy Wilson. "Here at Indulgence we require at least two outside courses and 4 to 6 in-salon courses each year. It is an extremely competitive business and you need to be on the cutting edge of knowledge in a variety of areas."

If the stylist has acquired the confidence, presentation skills and remains serious about her continuing education, the normal progression after five or so years is to open one's own salon.

"We have eight people working here," says Wilson, "and I'm thinking of hiring a massage therapist next year."

Today's female clientele expects more than just a haircut. The entire experience must be of a quality that convinces them to return. The baby boomer generation is the largest segment of women who frequent salons and they are visiting them more often as the Graying of America sets in.

"Boomers are easily 75 to 80 percent of our business and their chief request is hair coloring," says Wilson.

Both women agree that it is a lot of hard work but they both love what they do. I asked Mystique's Theresa Smith if the beauty business might be a viable avenue for the area’s unemployed to either begin or embark on a second career.

"Absolutely!" she said as she greeted yet another loyal customer.

It seems the business of beauty is a positive for those on both sides of the hair dryer.

Bill Schmick is an independent investor with Berkshire Money Management. (See "About" for more information.) None of the information presented in any of these articles is intended to be and should not be construed as an endorsement of BMM or a solicitation to become a client of BMM. The reader should not assume that any strategies, or specific investments discussed are employed, bought, sold or held by BMM. Direct your inquiries to Bill at 1-888-232-6072 (toll free) or e-mail him at wschmick@fairpoint.net. Visit www.afewdollarsmore.com for more of Bill's insights.